Sep 2007

Fall brings Kosher and Boutique Wines

Kosher “to be or not to be?”  September has Jewish holidays Rosh Hashanah (Jewish New Year) and Yom Kippur (Day of Atonement). Kosher wines are not just sweet wines from Manischewitz. Wine drinkers were once limited as to the choice for kosher wines, now there are many wineries in different countries that produce kosher wines.

For a wine to be kosher, strict regulations must be followed. It really all begins in the fields. Grapes from new vines may not be used for making wine, until after the fourth year. All the equipment, tools and winemaking storage facilities must be kosher. During the harvest, only Sabbath observant male Jews are allowed to work on the production of the wines. Since most of the experienced winemakers in Israel are not observant, this means that they can not touch the wine or the equipment, during the winemaking process. During the production of kosher wine, no animal products may be used. Only certified kosher products (yeast and agents) maybe used in the processing. No artificial coloring or preservatives may be used. Additionally, barrels must be cleaned three times.

There are really two levels of kosher wine. The first includes the restrictions outlined above, while the second, known as “mevushal” utilizes an additional process. This is important since Kashrut law stipulates that in order for a wine to retain its ‘kosher-ness’ once opened and poured by a non-Jew, the wine must be "mevushal."      Bringing the liquid to a boiling point makes this type of wine, causing air bubbles to be brought to the surface and the loss of some wine, due to evaporation. A wine that is produced in this manner retains its religious purity, regardless of who opens or pours it.

One kosher wine to try this season is Alfasi Chardonnay ($10.99) from Chile. The characteristics are dry, crisp, and well balanced with notes of apple and pear flavors. This chardonnay is best served with light flavored chicken and fish dishes or as an aperitif. A choice for sweet wine is Bartenura Moscato ($14.99) from Italy. This wine preserves the wonderful rich aromas of the Moscato grape. The characteristics are light, slightly effervescent with fresh peachy highlights. Enjoy with cheese, light desserts, and as an aperitif. The next wine is a 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon by Recanati ($12.99) from Israel. This cabernet was hand picked grapes soft pressed, and aged 8 months in French oak. The results are a full bodied wine with a delicate smoky aroma and hints of spices enhanced by plum and blackberry flavor. Enjoy with grilled meat, game, and hearty casseroles.

Boutique wines would be defined as small volume or limited amounts produced by a vineyard. Small could be from 1-5000 cases a year.  There are many vineyards that only produce these small amounts of high quality wine. In addition, boutique could be a particular wine that expresses a particular passion of the winemaker in a specific vintage.

The first wine this month is Match 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Butterdragon Hill ($85-$100) from Napa Valley, CA. The production of this wine was 500 cases at 14.6% alcohol. The 2002 is drinking very well at this time. The wine opens with delicate spices, tealeaf, berries, and hints of French oak. In the mouth, it has the full body of a classic Napa Valley Cabernet with dark berries, ripe currant, blueberry, blackberry, plum and chocolate finishing with sweet, soft tannins. This wine will age gracefully for at least 15 years.

The second wine that was sampled next was a 2003 Troll Creek Shiraz ($70-$85) from Barossa Valley, Australia. The alcohol on this wine is 15.5% by volume. This limited batch is hand picked and hand crafted to make this full bodied Shiraz. The wine was smooth, elegant with a pronounced currant, plum, a hint of raspberry, vanilla, and a touch of oak. This full bodied wine pairs with grilled meats, Thai food, and hearty full bodied cheese like a Pecorino with truffles or Cave Aged Gruyere. Troll creek production in the 2002 vintage was only 72 bottles to the US. The 2003 vintage was slightly higher.